i am going to make my own compost for my garden, any tips. Read details please.?

Question by Matthew: i am going to make my own compost for my garden, any tips. Read details please.?
I have stard making my own compost, so far i have been putting everything in a five gallon bucket such as dead vegetable leaves, hostas leaves, rotten strawberries, corn husks, anything that i should include? Or things that i should avoid composting? Help would be greatly appreciated.

Read answers:

Answer by theonlytufrose
no meat or animal byproducts as they will rott and draw rats and other critters.
grass clippings help add nitrogen. keep it stirred where air can get to it, keep it a little moist but not wet. if you let it just sit in a bucket it will get moldy unless you are turning (or rolling) it everyday. you can get some good informaiton on composting from your local university extension and its free. good luck.

What do you think? Answer below…

5 Responses to “i am going to make my own compost for my garden, any tips. Read details please.?”

  1. Rooker says:

    You can add tea bags, coffee grounds and the paper filters, vegetable peelings, torn up newspaper, grass clippings too. Soil from old planters.
    Somethings take longer to break down than others, corn husks being one of them. They will eventually but it will take a long time.
    We put in egg shells, but it can draw animals such as skunks.
    Some people say you can add weeds as long as they haven’t started to go to seed, personnally I avoid them altogether.
    Turn it frequently, keep it moist. When it starts to looking mushy and getting darker, you may want to start a new bucket for the fresher stuff.
    Good luck and soon enough you will have some great earth.

  2. uuchurchlady says:

    That bucket by itself will become a rotten mess. You need a worm box for indoor/outdoor composting. The parts are easy but you will have to invest in the red worms, probably about $20 for enough to make this work. Basically a 20 gallon plastic storage bin with a snap on lid, some spagnum moss or peat moss, a piece of cotton rope or cord (not synthetic it has to be absorbant like a wick), a black plastic garden waste or leaf bag and three empty cat litter buckets or a couple cement blocks (something to get the bin off the floor) and a drill or punch to make air holes with. If you are using it outdoors do not put air holes in the lid it will get too wet when it rains or you can cover it when it rains and uncover it when it is dry out.

    Turn the bin upside down and find the lowest point, usually in the outer rim around the bottom. At the mid point punch a hole just big enough to thread the cord through. Push a couple inches of the cord through the hole and turn the bin over. Tie a knot to keep the cord from falling out but do not snug it tight against the hole. In one of the cat litter buckets or that 5 gallon bucket you mentioned mix 1/2 of the moss with water until it is moist enough to hold together but not soupy and fill the bin about 1/3 full of damp moss. Put in the worms. Give them your days vegetable waste to eat in one corner and cover the whole thing with several inches of the dry moss then with the black plastic cut to be just a little bigger than the top of the bin but leave it loosely on top. Drill or punch 6 or 8 holes in a nice pattern on the lid of the bin and snap it in place.

    When feeding the worms push the dry bedding back and add the peelings etc in a new spot or corner each day then cover them again with more dry bedding. I cut up large pieces like melon rinds and I do not put citrus rinds or banana peels in as they make fruit flys happen. No meat or bones either. If the whole thing gets too wet the wick will help it drain so keep an open bucket under the hole with the cord or rope hanging down. It does not smell bad only like good dirt. The worms love coffee grounds and tea bags (tear them open).

    The liquid that drains out is Worm Juice and it is a very strong fertilizer. Dilute it 20 to 1, water to juice, for watering house plants or your garden. After 6 months to a year you have to turn it out and harvest the finished compost off the bottom of the bin. Use that cautiously as well in potting soil or added to your garden as it is “hot”. You can find more on this topic at “LaVermes Worms” and you can buy worms from her.

  3. Sunflower says:

    A compost heap needs drainage, so unless your bucket has lots of holes in the bottom it will become a slimy mess when the stuff starts decomposing. Also the bigger the heap is, the hotter it will get and the more efficient the process will be. A 5- gallon bucket is too small for a successful heap really. Try to make your heap with the base on the ground, or at least in a larger container with good drainage at the base. Turn the stuff regularly to get air into it, and cover the top to keep in the heat.

  4. alfa250 says:

    Add vegatable peeling, fruits, yard debris such as leaves and plant clippings, egg shells, coffee grounds, and ash from the fireplace. Get some chicken or steer manure from a farm and add it. I know its gross, but it helps a lot!

  5. Emma says:

    Look for natural and organic alternatives to chemical fertilizers, such as the use of compost. Natural fertilizers, compost and organic materials encourage native earthworms. The soil’s organic matter contributes to good soil structure, and water-holding capacity. Improve the soil with organic matter and fertilizers to develop the best soil for growing seeds and plants.

    Organic Gardening Tips – http://www.organic-items.com/growing-organic-products.htm

    Your main concern when organic gardening is soil health. You want your little ecosystem to be as strong and healthy as possible to support the plants you’re growing and the beneficial microorganisms within the soil that depend upon your plant’s byproducts for nourishment. As you know, these elements work symbiotically to create the best environment for all to survive. Most gardeners begin with a test kit that will provide a detailed analysis of the nutrients present, as well as the acidic or alkaline reading and the drainage level.

    More on Organic Gardening – http://www.perennial-gardens.com/flower-articles/organic-gardening.htm

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